There were many. I decided to keep going with toiles until I got it spot on:
Lowered the waist but 3.5cm and shortened the skirt by the same amount. Raising the underarm by 2.5cm. Taking in the shoulder back dart by another half a cm. Skirt is a size 6, leading to a size 0 at shoulders. Added half a cm to the arm side of shoulder seam, may consider adding another half cm after this make. Small shoulder adjustment. I think I could still do with taking out a little from the bust area, it not quite sure yet how to go about it. The bodice is lined, and in this version the skirt could also have done with it, but I’ll save that for the next one.
When repurposing a curtain of 120cm wide, used 160cm in length, with no lining as it was too think. With lining and short sleeves (but with no collar or bow), on fabric of 155cm wide, I used 2m.